Washing Machine Diagram / August 27, 2018 / Julieta Alley.
Washing machine pressure switches directly control the hot and cold water inlet solenoids and so are rated for quite high currents - 15A at 230V AC is typical. So for low-voltage DC applications, the switches can certainly cope with (say) 5A. This means that, for most loads, a relay won't be needed.
When an unbalanced condition occurs, the switch closes the circuit to the switch in the off-balance position. This removes electricity to all the washer's functional parts, stopping the cycle and thus avoiding a costly repair. The user then must redistribute the load more evenly in the washer tub, pull the timer dial out to de-energize the solenoid, and allow the switch to rest, and the push the timer dial in. This again closes the circuit to the normally active parts of the washer and washing machine.
At times you may feel your laundry is not coming out as clean as it used to be, then also you can doubt the possibility of an error in the heating element. Most probably the clothes might not be getting hot water and consequently they might be getting washed in cold water!
Remove the adjustment mechanism it's often part of the bracket holding the switch in place! As for identifying the pressure switch, that's easy. Nine times out of 10, it's directly behind the 'water level' adjustment knob in the top control panel of the machine. If the machine's upside down or partly destroyed, follow the sensing tube from the base of the wash tub. And while you're at it, it's also usually worth scrounging the tube, which is often a high-quality plastic hose. You never know when it might come in handy.By contrast, dishwasher pressure switches are normally buried beneath the stainless steel drum.